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Converting a Graham Farish
08 Shunter to DCC
DCC is a very
different method of controlling our train sets and one that seems to polarise
opinion. I tried it, because it seemed, after a long absence from the hobby,
that there should be an alternative to the traditional DC control with block
sections and related wiring. I really like using DCC and have become a bit of
an evangelist and in particular in my chosen scale of British outline N gauge.
Many of the objections to DCC in British N gauge revolve around problems converting
the Graham Farish models which are by a long way the most common rtr models
available to us. These problems stem from the design predating DCC by some
years and no real inclination by Grafar (in the past) to change that design to
a more DCC friendly one.
N gauge has a
major size disadvantage (in terms of space for decoders) compared with larger
scales but thanks to the small scale decoders from Lenz, Digitrax and ZTC,
there is usually a site for the decoder to be found. I have converted in excess
of 20 Loco’s now, albeit mostly modern image. Each conversion has had its
challenges but I have not been defeated yet. My latest conversion and the one I
shall outline here is the Farish 08 diesel shunter. I have used my favourite decoder
which is one of the smallest available, the Lenz LE0521A. It includes BEMF
(Back emf load compensation for constant speed on gradients) and lots of lighting
and function outputs that are unlikely to get used in a class 08 but the motor
control is superb.
There are two
main elements to any DCC conversion; firstly where it can be fitted and
secondly how to insulate the pickups from the motor so we can intercept the
signal and direct it to the DCC chip.

The 08
is a small loco but there is still room for a decoder in the loco cab directly
behind the window. This does mean you will be able to see the decoder (or
rather its insulation) through the window but this was not a problem for me. If
you do not like this idea, it would be possible to mill out the metal block at
the back of the casting in the cab area. This would be pretty time consuming
using a Dremel (or similar) fitted with a carving bit, and would also
dramatically reduce the weight of the loco.
Space was not
the biggest problem; the main issue in the Farish 0-6-0 chassis (08’s Panniers
etc) is that the whole chassis block is live with the power to the lower carbon
brush. It is virtually impossible to intercept the power from the pickup wipers
and insulate them from the chassis. The top carbon brush is mounted on a
plastic moulding and is no problem at all.
I was a bit
stuck for a while but a fellow N gauge DCC’er
(Gerry Spencer) came to the rescue with a bit of engineering cleverness.
He has devised a way to insulate the outer surfaces of the brass guide for the
carbon brush. You must also drill out the hole for the brass guide to 2.9mm to
allow for the increased diameter of the insulating material. This allows it to
remain insulated from the rest of the chassis but you must insulate the legs of
the retaining clip. There is room for a fine wire to be soldered to the
retaining clip (please do the soldering off the loco) and to run the power
directly from the DCC chip. The other motor connection is again soldered direct
to the retaining clip on top but no insulation is required as the bracket is
plastic. I highly recommend checking the insulation with a multimeter and that
you really have insulated the brush guide from the chassis to prevent
accidents.

In this picture
you can see the insulated carbon brush guide and the brass clip which I
insulated with electrical tape. You can easily lift up the rear of the plastic
chassis top and pull out the armature to allow access to drill out the chassis
Power from the
rails is taken by the pickups as on the DC loco and delivered to the DCC chip
by picking the power from the long bolt running up through the chassis for one
pole and directly of the chassis for the other pole; I used the clamped wire
that used to connect to the suppression capacitor cut short to solder to.

The wiring is as
follows, the Orange and Grey wires from the chip (using the NMRA wiring colour codes) go to each of
the motor brushes soldering to the brass clips. That said I used a length of black
wire to the lower brush guide so it would not show up from the side of the loco.
I also took the opportunity of blacking the pickups with a felt tip pen. The Red
and Black wires connect to the top of the long bolt carrying power from the LHS
wheels and the chassis carrying power from the RHS wheels. I found the pick ups
were not very good at touching each wheel when negotiating curves and turnouts;
this was fixed by bending the contacts out a little more.
Before replacing
the body verify the installation. Place the loco on your programming track and
check the address read back. The default for Lenz decoders is address 3 other
makes may vary. Do not power up on the main track until you have successfully
got the read back just in case you have made a mistake and you “let the smoke
out” of the chip. This is DCC’ers shorthand for destroying the chip.

Once the install
has been checked out, I insulated the chip with plastic from a clear plastic
bag and black electrical tape. Lenz do not recommend enclosing the chip but you
need to do something as the body is metal and could short the chip out. Also
the 08 is unlikely to be pulling huge trains or running at 125mph and therefore
should not get too hot. Tuck the chip in the side of the cab and refit the
body. That’s it you are done!
I have not converted
any of the Farish Panniers but the chassis is pretty much the same and should
be a similar job. I know Gerry Spencer is considering producing limited
quantities of these insulated brush guides. Please contact me through MERG or
the NGS for further details.
Gareth Cutting – 01923 253559 –
gareth_cutting@waters.com
Gerry Spencer – 01476 550301 –
gerry@jigerspe.demon.co.uk
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